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    Sunday, June 10, 2007

    Grilling Steaks:A Step-By-Step Guide to Achieving Barbecue Prowess - By Kirk Leins


    Grilling Steaks: - A Step-By-Step Guide to Achieving Barbecue Prowess - By Kirk Leins

    I have to be honest about something. When my editors initially asked me to write an article on grilling steaks, I was slightly hesitant to say yes. My apprehension at the time had nothing to do with my opinion on the subject. It did, however, have a lot to do with one question that kept running through my mind. Where do I begin?

    Lucky for all of us, I've managed to organize my thoughts on the topic. In doing so, I've attempted to lay out a comprehensive, yet digestible dossier on steaks and the practice of grilling them outdoors. But, before we go any further, I'd like to share with you a little steak-grilling philosophy.

    Like everything else in this world, there are upsides and downsides to grilling steaks outdoors, whether it's over charcoal, wood, or an open flame. Let's start with the positives.

    The primary reason to grill outdoors is flavor, especially when using either charcoal or wood as your fuel of choice. The smoke they create permeates anything sitting atop the grill, giving your food a quality that cannot be described with words.

    But steaks also taste great when they're cooked on a gas grill. This is due in large part to the flavor that's created when the heat of the flame comes into contact with the flavor left behind on the grill from previous grilling sessions.

    Outdoor grills also make it much easier to prepare a steak dinner for a large group. They not only handle a bigger payload, but they also simplify the impending clean up.

    In terms of the not-so-positive, it really comes down to two points for me. First, there are some steaks that arguably do better in a pan than on a grill, filet mignon and hangar steak to name two. The point here is that much of your grilling success has to do with the type of steak you choose. We'll get to some of my favorite cuts in a bit.

    The second downside has to do with the temperamental nature of the grill. As opposed to the predictability of cooking in a pan on top of your stove, an outdoor grill involves many "X factors". Everything – from your choice of fuel to hot spots on the grill – will have an effect on how your meat cooks. And when you're attempting to cook a steak to a specific degree of doneness, nothing wreaks more havoc on the final outcome than these types of variables. I'll show you how to deal with some of them later in this article.

    Where to Buy
    When it comes to buying great steak, there are typically four options available. My favorite is visiting a local, privately-owned butcher shop. If you look hard enough, every city has at least one such establishment. If you're not familiar with the private butcher shops in your neighborhood, start asking around. You can even look through the phonebook or do an online search. Your diligence will be rewarded as these establishments typically offer great, hand-cut steaks at lower prices than many of the larger stores.

    Another location for procuring really good steak is at one of your community's higher-end grocery stores. These stores are sometimes privately owned, but can also be part of a small chain. They typically offer outstanding produce, full-service bakeries and delis, harder-to-find grocery items, and top-notch meat and fish counters. The only problem is that you generally pay for this convenience in the form of higher prices throughout the store.

    A more cost-effective way to purchase steak is from a warehouse store like Costco. You may be forced into purchasing 4 to 6 steaks at a time, but the quality of the meat is typically very good, and the savings are awesome. This is a great choice if you're entertaining a large group or if you have room in the freezer to stock any unused steaks.

    Another cost-effective way to buy steaks involves your computer. Thanks to modern technology, there are countless online meat purveyors ready to ship great steaks right to your front door. One such website is www.omahasteaks.com. By logging on to their website, you'll be inundated with countless options as well as some really good deals. Two other websites I really like are www.lobels.com and www.nimanranch.com. With both companies, the quality of the steak is top-notch. The prices, however, are higher than those found at Omaha Steaks.

    What to Buy
    When it comes to buying steak, I rarely purchase anything that's tagged lower than USDA Prime. In a nutshell, Prime beef is the most tender and juicy available. The reason for this is the extensive marbling of fat within the lean. This fat literally dissolves into the meat during the cooking process, creating unmatched succulence. If cost is a factor, you can consider purchasing steaks marked USDA Choice. Buying anything lower than Choice, however, isn't a very good option.

    In terms of cuts of steak that are good for the grill, you have several choices. Two that come to mind instantly are T-bone and Porterhouse steaks. T-bone steaks are made up of two cuts, filet and New York strip, set apart by a bone resembling the shape of the letter T. This bone, along with an ample amount of fat, keeps both cuts juicy and tender, even when cooking over the high heat of an outdoor grill. FYI Porterhouse steaks are nothing more than T-bone steaks with larger portions of both filet and strip.

    Probably my favorite steak to cook on the grill is a cut known as the Rib Eye. Taken from the small end of the rib roast, the Rib Eye is as juicy and flavorful as beef can be. Traditional Rib Eyes are boneless, but they can also be found with the bone still attached. This version is known as a Cowboy Steak. A USDA Prime Rib Eye steak is not cheap, but trust me when I say that you cannot go wrong when cooking one. Whether you're using a cast iron pan or your outdoor grill, it's very hard to dry out this steak, no matter what degree of doneness you're trying to achieve. It is as forgiving as a steak can be.

    The New York Strip is also a nice cut for the grill as its outside edge is lined end-to-end with roughly 1/3 inch of fat. This strip of fat not only adds flavor to the steak but also keeps its edge very juicy. The problem with New York Strips is that they have a tendency to dry out the farther you get away from that fat. That's why I always suggest going with a New York Strip that's no thinner than 1 1/4 inches. The added thickness allows you the ability to get a nice char on the outside of the steak without over cooking the inside.

    If you're looking for a tender and flavorful cut of steak that is also budget friendly, look no further than Skirt Steak. If you read last month's article on preparing Fajitas for Cinco de Mayo, you're well aware of my love of good Skirt Steak. Not only is Skirt economical, it is unbelievably tasty and juicy, not to mention highly versatile.

    How to Cook Your Steak
    Every cut of steak has its own cooking quirks, and trying to address all of them in this article is downright impossible. What I can do, however, is give you a list of steak-grilling principles.

    * Cook Steaks at room temperature.
    Many people pull a steak from the fridge and plop it directly on a hot grill. This practice will alter your cooking times and make it very hard to achieve the desired interior doneness. I suggest removing your steaks from the fridge no less than an hour before cooking. Place them on a clean plate, cover with plastic wrap, and set in a cool place.

    * Don't under-season your steak
    When it comes to the use of salt and pepper, don't be shy. Steaks are large pieces of meat that require a substantial amount of seasoning. The first step in correctly seasoning a steak is using a coarse-grain salt (i.e. Kosher salt, sea salt) and freshly ground pepper, as opposed to table salt and pre-ground pepper. The flavors are better, stronger, and the coarse grinds make it easier to tell how much seasoning you've used.

    * Think twice about marinating
    There is really no need to marinate a high-quality steak. You're paying to obtain the deliciousness of its natural beef flavor. To me, stepping on that flavor with a marinade makes no sense. However, this does make the previous tip regarding sufficient seasoning even more important.

    * Get to know the grill
    Every outdoor grill heats differently. Understanding the grill you're cooking on is important to a successful outcome. After your barbecue has been lit and is at full temperature, hold your hand 3 inches above the grill, and run it over the entire surface area. Take notice of which areas are hotter than others, and store this information in the back of your mind. This will allow you to place the food properly and move it around appropriately during the cooking process.

    While your grill is at its hottest, use your steel-bristled barbecue brush to clean it thoroughly. The more you brush a hot grill, the more of a non-stick surface you will create.

    * The rules of thumb (and forefinger)
    When it comes to steak, the general rule is for every 1-inch of meat, ten minutes of cooking time (5 minutes per side) is needed to achieve a medium degree of doneness. Cooking times are adjusted in either direction to achieve varying degrees of doneness.

    These cooking times may be a great starting point, but they are merely an approximation. The best practice also involves cooking by feel. By pressing down on the steak with your forefinger, you can better estimate the interior doneness of the meat. This may sound strange, but press your forefinger to the tip of your nose. That feeling is similar to a steak cooked to medium. A steak that's more yielding will be more rare and, in turn, a steak that's less yielding will be more cooked. Do this a few times, and you'll get very good at predicting interior doneness without cutting into the steak.

    * Get your grill marks
    The first step in achieving perfect grill marks is the practice of flipping your steak only once. Continual flipping of the meat will destroy any chances of diamond-shaped grill marks.

    The next step involves turning the steak. Let's say your steak's cooking time is approximately 10 minutes. This means the steak would get flipped at the 5-minute mark. It also means that at the 2 1/2- and 7 1/2-minute marks, the steak needs to be rotated 90 degrees on the grill. Doing so will result in perfect grill marks on each side of the steak. When serving, display the side with best grill marks facing up.

    Now that you've got the skinny on what it takes to make a great steak, it's time to show you one of my favorite preparations.

    Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Blue Cheese Butter (Serves 2)

    2, 10-oz. boneless Rib Eye steaks, approximately 1 to 1 1/4 inch thick
    Extra virgin olive oil
    Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 stick of high quality unsalted butter, softened
    1/3 to 1/2 C blue cheese, crumbled

    In a bowl, use a fork to mix butter and blue cheese until fully combined. Place the butter mixture on top of a sheet of plastic wrap. Using your hands, form the butter into the shape of a small log, 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and set in the fridge for 2 hours.

    Heat your outdoor grill. Meanwhile, lightly brush each side of both steaks with a small amount of olive oil. This allows for better contact between the steak and the grill. Season all sides liberally with salt and pepper, and set aside on a plate.

    Once your grill is ready for cooking, place steaks on a very hot part of the grill and cook for approximately 8 minutes (four minutes per side) for medium-rare. Remove steaks to a plate. Unwrap blue cheese butter, and cut off four, 1/4-inch slices. Top each steak with two slices of blue cheese butter and serve.

    This is an awesome steak as the combination of beef and blue cheese is a perfect one. Serve this Rib Eye with roasted potatoes, mixed greens with balsamic vinaigrette, and a great glass of red wine. Bon Appétit and happy grilling!

    Kirk Leins has been cooking his entire life. No stranger to professional kitchens, he currently devotes most of his time to cooking instruction, food writing, and producing television. Kirk also provides his services as a personal chef in and around the Los Angeles area. He has made several TV appearances on both the national and local level, and is the Executive Chef for YOU Magazine. His free newsletter, The Everyday Gourmet, is available by contacting Kirk at EGcuisine@gmail.com.

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